Not everyone was born with curls, but to look back in history at the artifacts,
sculptures and masterpiece paintings, one might think otherwise. Throughout time, curls have been valued for their status, their religious signifi-cance, their political message and their sheer appeal.
Men and women have endured the unthinkable simply to have a crown of curls atop their head. Ancient Egyptians heated irons to curl royal beards and wigs. The Greeks used irons and terra cotta rollers. In Rome, the wealthy curled their hair on hollow tubes that were heated by inserting a hot rod. During the Renaissance, "crisping irons" were introduced at the Italian Court. All kinds of curling contraptions were used to create temporary curls.
It was not until the early 20th Century that a man named Marcel became famous for his way of waving hair in Paris. But it was Charles Nestle who is credited with creating the first permanent wave machine in London in 1905. Nestle's machine involved winding the hair in a spiral on a rod, coating it with an alkaline paste and covering all with an asbestos tube and a heated gas pipe-size iron with tong handles. Electricity was used to heat the large iron clamps while hair was held in place until it had been sufficiently steamed. This method was called croquignole wrapping, used primarily on short hair. The entire perm took at least six hours, after which the clients got plenty of curl, and often frizzy, dry, damaged hair with it!
Thankfully, a machineless perm was born in the 1930s, called a "cold wave," now also called an "alkaline wave." In the 1940s, liquid neutralizer was introduced. When perms fell out of fashion in the 1960s because natural looks were "in," acid perms were developed to create softer curls. More recently, conditioners were added to perms to enhance the hair and improve its look.
Today's perms continue to offer many improvements, and there are numerous perms that can be given at home. For best results, see your hair stylist for a professional perm. And, between salon visits, to maintain those glorious curls and wonderful waves, pamper your perm properly!
What makes a perm work?
Hair is made of keratin, composed of long molecular chains within the cortex layer of hair. These chains form a twisted rope-like fiber which has a network of cross-bonds or links that provide stability, strength and elasticity to hair. There are two types of bonds: hydrogen bonds and cystine or sulphur bonds. Permanent waves change the hair from straight to wavy by breaking these cross-bonds. When hair takes on its new shape, the bonds must be re-established for curl to be permanent. The classic permanent wave solution or "cold wave" lotion is generally thioglycolic acid plus ammonia, which causes the cystine or sulphur bonds to be released. When hair is wrapped on the rod, this solution is applied. A certain amount of time is required for the hair to take on the shape and size of the rod. This is called "processing time." Once the hair is "processed, the stylist applies a neutralizer while hair is still on the rods. The neutralizer provides a dual chemical action, neutralizing and oxidizing, which results in reforming the cystine bonds and the hydrogen bonds so that the hair stays curled. The neutralizer forms new hydrogen bonds to shrink or harden the cortex and cuticle layers of the hair. The cystine bonds are reformed by oxidation that occurs between the sulphur in the hair and the active oxygen atoms in the neutralizer. When the cystine bonds are reformed, the wave remains permanent. After all the neutralizer penetrates the hair, hair is unwrapped carefully and rinsed thoroughly with water. Now, hair is ready to style. For best results, perms should be done by a salon professional.
Q. What is the difference between home permanents and professional permanents?
A. Home perms are usually milder formulas that take longer to process. Professional perms have the advantage of the most current technology and an experienced stylist to help ensure the results.
Q. What is a cold wave?
A. The cold wave is an old term used for an alkaline wave. This type of perm does not require any added heat to process.
Q. What is an exothermic perm?
A. Exothermic perms contain ingredients that generate their own gentle heat and improve penetration of wave lotion.
Q. What is a bisulfate perm?
A. This is another form of chemical compound that has the potential to curl hair.
Acid ot Alkaline?
There are two basic types of perms, acid and alkaline. Acid perms are the most gentle formulas available. They produce soft, natural, yet long-lasting curls on non-resistant hair. Alkaline perms, also called "cold waves," have more strength and produce a firmer, more resilient curl when used on resistant or hard-to-curl hair types. Exothermic perms are alkaline perms that have heat activators which provide more snap to the curl. New perm technology is producing almost damage-free perms that are ammonia-free and lower in thiogly-colic acid. These new perms result in beautiful, springy curls.
Q. What is a root perm?
A. Root perms are used at the root area of the hair only. They are used to perm new growth on the hair that has been previously permed or to add extra lift at the root area. The previously-permed ends are protected with products to prevent the waving lotion from penetrating the ends.
Q. What is a reverse perm?
A. A reverse perm is actually the process of taking curl OUT of hair. It can be used to change a naturally tight curl to a looser curl. It is often referred to as straightening hair.
Q. What is a spiral perm? What is the difference between this type of perm and a traditional salon perm?
A. A spiral perm means that shoulder-length or longer hair is rolled onto the perm rod vertically, resulting in a corkscrew-type curl. Spiral perms can also be used to create an explosion of curls. For a traditional perm, hair is rolled horizontally.
Q. My stylist suggested I try a weave perm. What is it?
A. A weave perm waves only part of the hair to provide fullness and curves rather than curl. It is not an easy perm to do, so be sure your stylist is skilled.
Q. Is there a perm on the market that is chemical-free?
A. No. A perm must have chemicals, whether natural or synthetic, in it to break the disulfide bonds in the hair and then rearrange them into the new, desired curl pattern.
Q. My new perm is too curly. What can I do to relax it a little?
A. First, condition hair immediately, then blow-dry hair using a large brush. You may also need to set hair on large rollers. Never use chemical straighteners or relaxers for permed hair because they could damage it.
Q. How tight should you pull perm rollers if you want a curly look versus waves? Does it matter how tight the perm rollers are rolled?
A. Tension is not a factor to consider when deciding between curly or wavy patterns. Rod size, wrapping techniques and the perm formula chosen determine whether you have curly or wavy hair. Most manufacturers recommend wrapping with minimal tension to avoid damage to the hair. Let your stylist know if you feel the perm rods are wrapped so tight that they are uncomfortable.
Q. What causes a perm to be frizzy?
A. Usually, it is caused by using too much tension when wrapping a perm. Minimal tension should be used so the cuticle can open freely to receive the perm solution. It is important for your stylist to follow directions carefully.
Q. I hate my new perm. Can I get it redone immediately?A. Go back to your stylist and discuss the alternatives. If it is too curly, it can be relaxed. If it is not curly enough, wait at least a week to redo it. If your hair is not in good enough condition to re-perm, you may have to trim your hair and wait until your hair is ready to perm again.
Q. I need something to revive my perm. It's only a few weeks old, and it has gone limp. What can I do?
A. Perm rejuvenators contain moisturizers that add snap to a curl. Avoid heavy conditioners that could weigh hair down. Consult your stylist before the next perm and suggest a different type perm, change of rod size or wrapping technique. Try Quantam Perm Rejuvenator or Design Freedom Perm Revitalizer.
Q. My last perm lasted less than a month. What went wrong?
A. There are numerous reasons: a bad choice of perm or for- mula; too much water used during wrapping; not enough water blotted from hair before neutralizing; the stylist missed or skipped a step; hair had excess build-up; a poor consultation in which the client forgot to tell the stylist something that could have affected the way the perm reacted; too much or too heavy conditioning during your daily regime could also cause curl to relax. Discuss your problem with your stylist.
Q. I'm three months pregnant, and my last perm was five months ago. My hair is a wreck Can I have it permed now?
A. Consult your doctor first. Generally, it is safe for a pregnant woman to perm her hair, as long as she doesn't drink the solution! Many stylists recommend waiting until after the first trimester.
Q. I like the look of a pageboy, but my fine, thin hair droops by the end of the day. What perm will give me this sleek look that lasts?
A. Body waves are perfect for this look because they'll provide the curve and volume you need to hold your pageboy style.
Q. My hair is in that awful growing-out stage. What can I do to survive this period?
A. Let your stylist trim or cut your hair. He or she may also use a spot perm on the new growth. The hair also can be permed on the undersections of the hair to give shape and to make the growing out less noticeable.
Q. Can I safely have my hair colored and permed?
A. Yes, if your stylist uses the correct perm and follows all procedures correctly, and your hair is in good condition at the time of the service. Let your stylist be your guide.
Q. Will a perm change my haircolor?
A. A perm should not change your natural haircolor. Many perms do fade color-treated hair. Your stylist should rinse hair thoroughly to remove all perm solution from hair to prevent any color fading.
Q. Why is it important for me to consult with my stylist before I have a perm?
A. All perms are designed to be used on specific hair types. It is important for your stylist to consult with you first to determine exactly what you want from a perm. It is also important for the stylist to know your life style, medical conditions or time limitations to select the right formula. Then, the stylist must choose the correct wrapping technique and rod size to achieve the results you desire.
Q. How long before a wedding should a bride-to-be have a perm?
A. One to two weeks so that the stylist can create a look the bride knows she will be happy with immediately.
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