For centuries, African women have regarded their hair as an important reflection of their heritage, often decorating it grandly to reflect tribal or family customs.
Today, fashion trends, movies, celebrities, recording artists and sports figures set the direction for the way many African-American women style their hair, rather than customs passed down through the ages.
Because African-American hair is characteristically curlier and coarser than Caucasian hair, numerous hair care products have been developed over the years to specifically address the needs of black hair. One person, in particular, is credited with launching the modern black hair care revolution - Madame C. J. Walker. This orphaned daughter of Louisiana ex-slaves built a multi-million dollar hair care business from a single ointment she concocted on her stove in 1905.
"Madame Walker," as she was to become known, developed not only an influential beauty business, but also numerous hair care products including an innovative pressing comb.
Still in existence today, Madame Walker's company, along with other major ethnic product manufacturers, offer African-American women products specifically designed for their hair and skin. Some of these top companies include Soft Sheen, Luster's, Johnson's Products, Pro-line, Summit Labs and J M Products.
Thanks to these companies, women of color have hundreds of options available to help keep their hair healthy, shiny and beautiful. And best of all, these modern hair care products are quick, safe and easy to use!
Q. I'm interested in having my hair chemically straightened but I don't completely understand the process. Exactly what does relaxing involve?
A. When a woman's hair is relaxed, it is chemically straightened. A relaxer works by penetrating into the cortex and breaking the strong chemical bonds that made hair curly. Relaxing hair begins by protecting the skin around the scalp with a protective cream or oil. Then, a relaxer chemical is applied to dry hair a section at a time, and hair is processed for a specified time. Hair is then rinsed and a neutralizing shampoo is applied to stop the relaxing process. Because relaxing can leave hair in a weakened condition, a deep-penetrating treatment is often the final step. A mild straightening solution should be used on fine hair. Hair that is thicker and more coarse can take a stronger solution. For touch-ups, a relaxer is applied only to new growth about every six weeks. Relaxers are strong chemicals that are best used by your stylist.
Q. I hate the smell from relaxers. How can I minimize this unappealing odor?
A. Unfortunately, while your hair is being relaxed, you can't avoid the odor. However, after relaxing hair, shampooing well with a good neutralizing shampoo, like Sheenique or Isoplus Neutralizing Shampoo, will help remove the odor.
Q. If I have coarse hair, what would be the best relaxer for me?
A. A super strength is best for very coarse or resistant hair and preferably a sodium hydroxide relaxer. See your stylist for the best advice.
Q. What is the difference between regular, super and mild relaxer strengths?
A. The amount of active chemical (sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide) determines the strength of the relaxer. Regular is for most people with normal hair, super for very coarse or resistant hair and mild for fine.
Q. What is the difference between a relaxer and a curl?
A. A relaxer straightens the hair while a curl (also called a perm) re-forms a tight curl into a looser, more manageable curl.
Q. What is the difference between lye and no-lye relaxers?
A. The difference is in the type of chemicals used. In lye relaxers, the active ingredient is sodium hydroxide. In no-lye relaxers, the active ingredient is calcium hydroxide. The no-lye relaxer is usually a little milder and good for sensitive scalps, but the calcium can cause hair to be slightly drier.
Q. My 10-year-old daughter wants her hair relaxed. Is she too young?
A. Years ago, relaxers for children were not even thought about. In addition to being painful, chemical straighteners used to smell awful, were unpredictable, and carried a high risk of permanent hair and scalp damage. Today, relaxers are much gentler on the hair and scalp and can be controlled. In fact, several manufacturers make chemical straighteners just for children, such as Soft Sheen's Tender Care Relaxer Kit, Pro-line's Just For Me Relaxer Kit or Lustre's PCJ No-Lye Relaxer Kit. Many manufacturers recommend having a child's hair analyzed first.
Q. How often can hair be relaxed?
A. Just like permanent haircolor, new growth on hair that's been relaxed needs to be "touched up." This is usually done about every six weeks. The whole head should never be re-relaxed. Relaxing is tougher on the hair than any other chemical process, therefore, only "new growth" should be "touched up."
Q. I relaxed my hair, but as soon as I shampooed it, the curliness came-right back. What happened?
A. The relaxing process may have been stopped too soon. When that happens, it can look like the hair is completely relaxed, but when it is rinsed and shampooed, the natural curl is still there! The process must be correctly timed. Look for instructions that might indicate how long you should wait to shampoo or consult your stylist.
Q. I have relaxed hair. What type of hair regime should I follow? For natural or thermally-styled hair? For curled hair?
A. For relaxed hair, shampoo once a week, and use a rinse- out conditioner as well as a leave-in conditioner twice a week. Use a hairdressing or oil sheen daily. For natural or thermally-styled hair, shampoo once a week, use a leave-in conditioner after shampooing and use a hairdressing or oil sheen daily. For curled hair, you shampoo every week to 10 days, then use a curl activator everyday and curl moisturizer about twice a week.
Q. Can you use a no-lye relaxer over one with Sye?
A. Yes. Because the relaxer is always applied to new growth only, not over previously relaxed hair.
Q. Why is it necessary to use a neutralizing shampoo with a relaxer?
A. A neutralizing shampoo is used after a relaxer to help remove all traces of the relaxer and help return the hair to its normal pH level.
Q. Will moisturizing my hair cause my hair to go back to it's curly shape after it is relaxed?
A. No. Moisturizing is important to keep hair in tip-top shape - so don't be afraid to do it regularly, after every shampoo. Good moisturizing products to try are Ion Moisturizing Treatment, Queen Helene Cholesterol or New Era Hair Moisturizer.
Q. I don't want to completely straighten my hair. Is there a way to loosen the curl and add texture?
A. A texturizing relaxer or a mild relaxer combed through the hair and left for 19 to 20 minutes will loosen the curl. Kits made specifically for this include Pro-line's Comb Thru Texturizer, Luster's S-Curl Kit or Sportin' Waves Comb-Thru Kit.
Q. Does a relaxes curl or straighten hair? What is the difference?
A. A relaxer is designed to straighten hair. A curl product first relaxes hair, then a waving lotion or booster is used to curl hair. After curling, hair is neutralized like a standard perm would be.
Q. Can African-Americans use any type of perm product?
A. Yes, depending on their hair type. Chemically, a curl prod- uct and a conventional alkaline permanent wave have the same active ingredient: ammonium thioglycolate. The difference is that most curl services call for that first "loosening" application of thio (the"rearranger") before applying the waving lotion.
Q. Can relaxed hair be chemically curled? Can curled hair be relaxed?
A. No, not at the same time. The two processes are different, and the chemicals are incompatible with each other. To do both would break the hair and cause severe damage.
Q. What is the safest way to grow out a curly perm?
A. Continue to keep your hair maintained with curl maintenance products. Wash and condition regularly and moisturize the new growth. For maintenance, try Care Free Curl Hair & Scalp Spray, Wave Nouveau Finishing Mist and Lotion or Right On Curl Activator Moisturizer.
Q. Is there a way to curl my hair without using chemicals?
A. Try roller setting with a body building product such as Lottabody Setting Lotion, or Ultra Sheen Super Setting Lotion. They'll provide protection and a firmer curl, too!
Q. Can I color my relaxed (or curled) hair?
A. Sure you can! But double-processing is tough on any hair and double-processing relaxed hair can be especially dangerous. The best recommendation is usually not permanent haircolor. Use semi-permanent color instead, or use an "in-between" type color, which doesn't have any lightening action, but can,last almost as long as permanent haircolor. It is best to consult a professional stylist for coloring relaxed or chemically curled hair.
Q. Can I use henna on my hair?
A. Regular henna is not recommended for use on hair that has been chemically treated. Ardell's Hennalucent is a 100 percent organictranslucent toner and conditioner that can be use on permed or relaxed hair safely. In fact, it will restore elasticity, body and shine as it contains hydrolyzed animal protein, plant extracts and henna.
Q. I've always wanted to color my hair red or f blond. Is there a believable shade of red or blond for me?
A. There is a shade of red or blond for everyone! The key is knowing whether you should go red or opt for blond. Ask yourself what hue your hair turns in the summer? Does it have a red or blond cast? Use this as a guide to help you find the right shade or consult your stylist. Carson's Dark & Lovely Hair Color line is made specifically for African- American hair.
Q. How do I know which shampoo and which conditioner are right for my hair type?
A. If your hair is dry, i.e. brittle, dull and has split ends, opt for a mild shampoo and a deep conditioner with lots of emollients, For damaged hair, i.e. breaks easily and is dry and breaks off when combed, choose a low pH shampoo like Professional Prescription Transpose (5.25 pH) and a deep conditioner, such as Professional Prescription Super Protein Pac, formulated for damaged hair. For excessively oily hair, common among women-of-color with a European or native American Indian background, use a shampoo with a higher concentration of detergent than conditioner, such as Revlon Herbal Deep Clean. Opt for an oil-free, leave-in conditioner for fine, thin, or delicate hair, i.e. hair that lacks body, will not hold a set and has static electricity. Select a very mild shampoo, such as Keragenics Therapy or Optimum Care Collagen Moisture and use an instant conditioner, such as Optimum Care Rich Condition or Ion Finishing Rinse.
Q. How often should I shampoo and condition my hair?
A. Every seven to 10 days is usually often enough - even if you have extensions, cornrows or dreadlocks. If you work out often or wear a wig, you may need to wash your hair more frequently. A good indication that it's time to shampoo and condition is when your hair begins to look dull, limp or when the scalp begins to itch. Use a conditioning shampoo such as Optimum Care Collagen Shampoo, Summit's Sheenique Silk Moisturizing Shampoo, Revlon's Creme of Nature or Let's Jam Shampoo. Follow with a leave-in conditioner for protection against daily abuse like sun, wind and thermal appliances. Try Fantasia IC Hair & Scalp Treatment, Sheenique Stayz-N Treatment or All Ways Natural 911 Emergency Treatment.
Q. My hair is oily at the scalp but dry on the ends. What do you recommend?
A. You're describing the natural condition of most African-American hair. The answer is to decide on a maintenance routine - shampoo, conditioner and hairdressing - based on your hair type and how you want it styled. Good products to try are Revlon's Herbal Deep Clean Shampoo or Ion Balanced Cleansing Shampoo along with Ion Moisturing Treatment or Wave Nouveau Remoisturizing Conditioner,
Q. What type of shampoo will rinse away heavy doses of hair lotions?
A. Use a deep-cleansing shampoo like Care Free Curl Conditioning Shampoo, Ion Balanced Cleansing Shampoo or Let's Jam Shampoo.
Q. What is the best type of shampoo for African-American hair?
A. Use a non-alkaline, detangling, moisturizing shampoo such as Creme of Nature, Sheenique Silk Moisturizing Shampoo or Optimum Care Collagen Moisture Shampoo,
Q. I am an African-American with gray hair. Is there a product that will help the yellowish tones?
A. Try one of the shampoos designed to reduce yellow or brassy tones in gray hair, such as Jheri Redding Silver Lustre or Clairol's Shimmer Lights.
Q. My hair is dry, damaged and has broken off. Can I do anything to get it back on track?
A. It is possible to improve the look, feel and manageability of your abused tresses with conditioners and moisturizers. Try washing hair once a week, using an oil-based shampoo such as Lustrasilk Hot Oil Shampoo and moisturize with a conditioning treatment such as Sheenique Silk Reforming Complex. While the conditioner is in your hair, sit under a dryer for about 10 minutes. Set dryer on moderate to warm heat to allow hair to absorb the nutrients. Also, avoid constant use of hairsprays, or choose one that is oil-based. Brush and comb hair only when needed and be very gentle. Styling professionals sometimes recommend that their clients with damaged hair have hair extensions or style their hair in cornrows. They're a great way to give your hair a rest while keeping you well-groomed. If you do plan on wearing your hair in cornrows, make sure they are not too tight or left in too long.
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