A. No. Price is not guide to the quality of a skin-care or cosmetic product. Price is governed by packaging and advertising costs and the market segment at which the product is aimed. The vast majority of cosmetic and skin-care products maintain high standards of quality and purity, no matter what the price range.
WHAT PRICE BEAUTY?
Does beauty have a price? It certainly seems to when it comes to makeup . . . and the price always seems so high! The good news is that cost has little, if anything, to do with the clinical effectiveness— the results—of any cosmetic. If you want to spend more for a product—because you like the shade, the packaging, the brand name, the cachet/fantasy of owning a "designer" cosmetic—go ahead. But please don't feel pressured into buying it. There are plenty of lower-priced products that are just as effective.
While shopping for low- or no-frills cosmetics means you give up the "trained" sales help found in the department stores, manufacturers of products sold in drugstores and outlets are trying to steer you right. Clarion, a skin-care and cosmetic line from Noxell, furnishes a "computer" that suggests products based on the customer's skin color and skin type. Another drugstore standard, Max Factor, has developed packaging that "codes" or groups appropriate products by skin type.
FOUNDATION MAKEUP
These products have the sole purpose of making skin look prettier— by covering small imperfections, smoothing out skin-color tones, giving skin a "finish." Skillfully used, they do these things beautifully. You wind up with the appearance of skin with a finer texture, a subtle luster, perhaps a hint of heightened color.
Basically, a foundation contains water, oil, pigment, and various waxes. They are available in an endless variety of colors and formulas—hypoallergenic, scented, unscented, fragrance-free, oil-free, water-based, moisturizing, oil-controlling, and goodness knows what else. You can buy liquid, cream, cake, crayon, and mousse types. The form you choose is a matter of personal preference—it's the one you feel you can control, that gives you the results you want.
There is also an enormous price range. Make no mistake about it, though, the inexpensive ones are just as good for you as the expensive ones. The major cosmetics manufacturers all produce products of high quality and purity. There are few exceptions to this. So do not feel you have to spend a lot for a good foundation makeup.
Having said that, it is also necessary to point out that any of these products may cause problems (see "Adverse Reactions to Cosmetics" post), but such problems are really relatively rare. Essentially, all cosmetics marketed by major manufacturers have a low potential for allergy and irritancy, whether or not they are labeled "hypoallergenic."
FOUNDATION GUIDELINES
The million-dollar question: Which foundation to use? The advice here is simple: Choose the one that appeals to you. From a skin-health perspective, here are a few guidelines, according to skin type:
Opt for Lighter Coverage
No matter what your skin type, remember—-lighter, less greasy products give a more natural look to skin. Foundations should be used to blend and tone rather than to plaster over and cover the skin completely. Lighter foundations are also less prone to cause problems with whiteheads, blackheads, and breakouts.
Finally, lighter, less greasy products are much easier to remove completely in facial cleansing.
How to find a "light" foundation? Read the label. All foundations are about half water, so water is usually the first ingredient listed, look beyond this to the rest of the list. A foundation with more oils in its listing is going to be heavier. One with more filler or thickener (such as talc, clay, zinc oxide, or aluminum silicate) is going to be lighter. Read the buzz words—"translucent," "sheer," "matte," "natural," "light" are all tip-offs to a lighter formula.
Guidelines for Dry Skin
Older skin or dry skin may need a creamier foundation formula for the best coverage. Ones with a higher water content may not have enough "slip," or lubrication, to go on evenly to suit these skin types. That doesn't mean heading for the heaviest, oiliest base in the store. Instead, find the lightest one that gives you coverage. Lighter products are crucial for dry or older skins—too heavy a product can accentuate crinkles, lines, and wrinkles. Don't use foundation to spackle in facial lines—it just can't be done. Look for emollients or oils (usually mineral oil) in the ingredients listing; for the buzzwords "moist" and "dewy"; and/or for claims of coverage. (The more oil in a formula, the more coverage it provides . . . and the more heavily it goes on skin.
Other covering agents are titanium dioxide, talc, and kaolin. If you want more coverage, look for these near the top of the ingredients list.) What if "moist" or "dewy" is just too shiny for you and "matte" is too dry? A good compromise is the semimatte formula, which gives a nice finish with just a bit of shine, or "radiance" as it's often referred to on labels.
Another option: Apply your usual moisturizer before applying a lighter foundation. The moisturizer underlayer may provide just the amount of emollient slip needed for a good result. There are also tinted moisturizers available that give skin a sheer color, so you can skip foundation altogether.
FOUNDATIONS FOR DRY SKIN
Drugstore Products
Helena Rubinstein Liquid Silk Foundation
Revlon Natural Wonder "Fresh-All-Day" Moisturizing Makeup
Almay Protectives Skin Care for Age Control Lasting Finish Liquid Makeup
Max Factor Ultralucent Moisturizing Pure Moisture Fluid Make-Up
Maybelline Mousse Make-up
Allercreme Satin Finish Makeup
Almay Fresh Glow Moisture Makeup
Department Store Products
Ultima II Actives Protective Face Color Mousse
Clarins Revitalizing Tinted Moisturizer
Ultima II Procollagen Anti-Aging Firming Foundation
Guidelines for Normal Skin
This is the skin that most often has more denned drier areas (cheeks) combined with oilier ones (nose, chin, forehead), so it's best to choose a foundation that works on both. Try foundations that are mostly water (with oil appearing toward the middle of the ingredients list), or look for one that contains oil blotters (label buzz words include "minimizing" and "oil-controlling"). A sheer formulation may be fine for drier areas, but you may notice that it won't quite hide broken capillaries, large pores, or uneven skin tone in oilier areas. In that case, look for one that gives light to medium coverage.
FOUNDATIONS FOR NORMAL SKIN
Drugstore Products
L'Erin Moisture Fresh Makeup
Max Factor Creme Puff Makeup
Almay Maximum Protection Cream-Powder Makeup
Department Store Products
Lancome Bienfait du Matin Multi-Protective Day Cream
Clinique Face Zone Sun Block
Biotherm Teint Tonic Protective Moisturizer
Clinique Balanced Makeup Base
Chanel Teint Naturel Liquid Makeup
Shiseido Moisture Mist Liquid Foundation
Lancome Maquimat Teint Naturel
Clarin's Revitalizing Tinted Moisturizer Ultima II Procollagen Anti-Aging Firming Foundation Est.ee Lauder Polished Performance Liquid Makeup Lancome Dual Finish Cream/Powder Makeup Estee Lauder Fresh Air Makeup Base
Guidelines for Oily and/or Acne-Prone Skin
Individuals with active acne usually want heavy coverage to hide the problem. Much better advice is to treat the problem. Choose a medium-coverage foundation and apply it over blemishes that have been dabbed first with a medicated coverup for the most natural-looking effect. Trying to hide blemishes with makeup can make pimples worse.
It's worth repeating: The wrong foundation may cause breakout problems on clear, faces and aggravate these problems on breakout-prone faces. Very frequently, dermatologists consult with women who are using the wrong foundation and are having skin trouble as a result.
It is difficult for an acne-prone person to read labels and to decide on a foundation that won't cause problems; because, unfortunately, makeup labeling is misleading or inconclusive. And when it comes to acne-prone skin, the wrong product has long-lasting skin consequences . . . blemishes. Terms such as "oil-free," "water-based," "oil control," "hypoallergenic," and "dermatologist-tested" do not necessarily mean that a foundation is safe for acne-prone skin. Even the new phrase "noncomedogenic," advertised to mean it cannot cause breakouts, may not be safe for the acne-prone face. While such a product may contain no animal or vegetable fats (known acne aggravators), they contain synthetic oil derivatives to make them moist and easier to apply. These can cause problems in some people.
Surprisingly, foundations that contain alcohol may be too drying for skin if used in conjunction with a very drying acne medication.
FOUNDATIONS FOR OILY/ACNE-PRONE SKIN
Drugstore Products
Almay Fresh Look Oil Free Makeup Almay Smart Cover Makeup Helena Rubinstein Bio-Clear Revlon Natural Wonder Oil Free Base Allercreme Matte Finish
Maybelline Shine Free Oil Control Dual Powder Base Cover Girl Oily Control Make-Up
Department Store Products
Lancome Macquicontrole Oil-Free Liquid Make-Up
Clinique Workout Makeup
Janet Sartin Day Wear Astringent
Germaine Monteil Visage Clarite
Ultima II Formula 2 Makeup
Elizabeth Arden Extra Control for Oily Skin
Clinique Pore Minimizer Makeup
Prescriptives Oil Free Exact Color Makeup
Estee Lauder Oil Control Formula
Erno Lazlo Normalizing "Shake It" Foundation
Guidelines for Sensitive Skin
This skin type needs the lightest possible coverage ("sheer," "translucent") or, if you can get away with it, no foundation at all (see the section on powders on page 104). Products labeled "unscented and fragrance-free" are a good bet. Possible irritants include perfumes, oils, starchy fillers, preservatives, and propylene glycol surfactants (sodium laurel sulfate, for example). Even formulas labeled "hypoallergenic" are no guarantee of nonirritancy. One more skin troubler to be on the lookout for is sunscreen. The most common chemical, PABA, is a known skin irritant and sensitizer. Plus, as has already been mentioned, a foundation containing sunscreen does not usually bear an SPF number, so you don't know how much (or how little) protection you're actually getting. A PABA-free sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher) applied before foundation is a better bet.
FOUNDATIONS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
Drugstore Products
Almay Moisturizing Foundation
Allercreme Matte Finish, Velvet Finish and Satin Finish Makeup Noxell Clarion Foundation
Department Store Products
Clinique Balanced Makeup Base
Estee Lauder Soft Finish Compact Makeup
Helpful hint: To get the thinnest, most even coverage, it's important to use the right tools. For the standard, drier, oil-free formulas, which have neither as much slip, nor as much "play time" (the time a product remains moist and spreadable, allowing the user time to "play" or arrange it to her satisfaction before it dries), a moistened cosmetic sponge is key to giving you the result you want.
Applying Foundation
Use the right tools to apply foundation. A dense synthetic latex or cosmetic sponge (it may also be called a "silk" sponge) or a small natural sea sponge gives the most natural results. Dampen the sponge first, then apply the product.
You probably know that you should dot foundation onto forehead, nose, chin, and cheeks, but did you know you should apply these dots to one area at a time, blending thoroughly before dotting the next area? Premature dotting allows the product to dry out, and it may not blend as well. Blend using light outward and upward strokes. If you notice any streaks or uneven areas once this process is completed, don't apply more foundation. Redampen the sponge (it should feel barely damp) and smooth over these areas.
Ever wonder just how much a dot of foundation is? When you touch your finger to your face, it should leave a mark of foundation that's about the size of an M & M.
BLUSHERS
For color in the cheeks, for toning makeup, and for highlighting and contouring the cheekbones, blushers add the finishing touch. They are available in cream, gel, powder, soft crayon/pencil, and mousse forms.
The only caution here applies to those with oily or acne-prone skin, for some blushers may cause blackheads, whiteheads, and sometimes pimples in the blush zone.
There are a few things to consider here. First, the cream blushers (which have an oily or waxy base) are more likely to cause pore problems than powder types. Even gel types (which are petrolatum-based) can kick up problems.
The red dyes in the blusher (usually D&C #11 or #17) may do the same thing. It is difficult to say just how important a problem this is, but if changing from a cream blush to a dry powder does not solve your blocked-pore woes, try a powder eye shadow as a blusher. The pinkish shades of eye powder contain a different red dye—one that is less likely to cause breakout problems.
Remember, too, that some products contain fragrances, lanolin, or preservatives that can cause a skin reaction.
The Four Biggest Blush Mistakes
Correct these and you'll get a natural, fresh look from blush.
1. Applying blush in a straight-line streak. This approach is much too harsh for any face. The right shape is a "pork chop"—widest at the front of the face, tapering back and up toward the outer brow. The edges of this "pork chop" should be softly blended so there is no noticeable demarcation line.
2. Misusing—or not using—the proper blush applicator. Applying blush with the right tool helps achieve both the right- shape and the right degree of blending. A triangular wedge sponge is used for gel, cream, mousse, and pencil types. For cream or gel blushes, rub the wider end over the blush, then blot on the back of your hand to blend the color and remove any excess. Stipple it onto your cheeks quickly, then blend with the narrower end. For mousse blushes, dispense a dime-sized amount into your palm and blend with the fingers until creamy. Apply with the fingers and blend with the wedge sponge. For crayon types, apply with the pencil tip and blend with sponge.
Blushers | ||
Blush. Type Powder | Skin Type All skin types, especially oily | Comments Can "turn" on oily skins Easiest to work with Covers small imperfections Apply over foundation and over powder |
Gel (also color wash, color rub, stain) | Dry, older skins | Gives sheer finish but dries rapidly Needs frequent reapplica- tion Watch for blocked pores Apply over foundation and under powder |
Cream | Dry, older skins | Longest-lasting form Apply over foundation and under powder |
Mousse | All types except acne-prone | Watch for blocked pores Apply over foundation and under powder |
Crayon/pencil | Trouble-free | Long-lasting Can drag or pull on application Apply over foundation and under powder |
Blush brushes are used for powder blushes. Don't use the applicator that comes with powder blush—it's too thin and flat to give good results. The right brush has dense bristles at least IVi inches long, cut in a dome shape that forms a 2-inch-wide fan when pressed against the skin. Soft bristles (sable or squirrel), not coarse ones (such as pony), are less irritating to the skin and also distribute the blush more evenly. Run the brush over the surface of the blush, and tap or blow off the excess before applying it to your face.
Money-saving tip: Buy blush brushes in an art supply store. That way, you're not paying extra for a company name. Ask for artist's or potter's brushes.
3. Applying blush to the front of the face only. This can close in a face. Remember, your face is three-dimensional. Blusher should be applied along the natural curve of the cheekbone, all the way to the hairline. Proper use of blush (combined with the right tool) can give it depth and definition.
4. Choosing too dark a shade. The most common error is assuming that the darker the blush, the longer it will last. Wrong. In fact, too dark a shade can actually make your cheekbones recede!
Match blush to your skin tone:
| Skin Tone | Blush Shade |
| Ivory to beige | Pinks |
| Olive | Peaches and corals |
| Dark, black | Rusts and spices |
FACIAL POWDERS
To "set" foundation and blush, to create a matte (no-shine) finish, and to reduce oily sheen, reach for a face powder. Once considered "grandmotherly," powders are popular again because, used properly, they give skin a clean finish. In fact, they have become a foundation alternative. Powders are fine for all skin types to use. For oily skin, look for a product high in talc or chalk to mop up excess oil. Dry skin types can use ones that contain more oil or claim to be moisturizing.
The basic formula for a loose powder is a base (talcum, clay, magnesium silicate, magnesium almuminum silicate), spreading/ad-hering/covering agents (kaolin, silicone, .zinc stearate), pigments, preservatives, and perfumes. Pressed powders contain an oil or gum to hold the ingredients together.
You can choose from neutral (no color) powders or tinted powders, also known as "full-coverage" powders. Brand new on the scene is a foundation/powder hybrid. A blend of cream foundation and powder in a compact, these products can be applied with a damp sponge for a moist foundation effect or dry for a matte powder effect. While the choice is yours, these products are heavier—a wet application can result in a pancake effect. Try the dry application—it yields a more natural finish but covers enough to eliminate the need for foundation.
Tips for Powder Perfection
- Opt for loose rather than pressed powders. A loose powder contains more air, so it's easier to apply lightly. Pick one that is labeled "translucent"—it lets your natural skin color show through. You'll use less, and less is healthier for skin.
- Apply with clean soft brush—soft so it doesn't irritate skin and clean because a buildup of skin oils on bristles can cause the powder to turn an off color. Needless to say.,- brushes should be stored in a makeup bag, not let loose in a purse, and should never be lent or borrowed, as infections can be spread.
- Apply powder with sweeping motions, from the center of the face out toward the hairline.
- Finish by buffing away the excess. To achieve a delicate, transparent effect, take a clean brush or cotton ball and gently smooth over the powder with small circular motions.
- For pressed powders, press the powder into place; don't rub a puff over the skin. Don't store the puff in the compact; skin oils can accumulate and turn powder an off color. Best to toss the puff and use cotton balls.
- Money-saving tip: Good old Johnson & Johnson Baby Powder is an inexpensive alternative to face powder. In spite of the fact that it is white, when properly applied and buffed with brushes, it leaves a great translucent finish on skin.
Drugstore Products
Coty Correctives Powder
Maybelline Shine Free Oil Control Dual Base Powder Max Factor Ultralucent Ultra Sheer Face Powder Cover Girl Translucent Blotting Powder Almay Translucent Finish Face Powder Revlon Skin Balancing Powder Creme Makeup Almay Shine Free Blotting Powder
Department Store Products
Shiseido Moisture Mist Compact Foundation
Chanel Poudre Douce
Lancome Boite A Poudre
Alexandra de Markoff Finishing Powder
Lancome MacquiFinish Pressed Powder Translucent Mat
COSMETIC CAMOUFLAGE—HOW TO HIDE WHAT YOU HATE
Makeup not only plays up great skin, it can help conceal skin flaws and transient facial crises. Here's a rundown of the most common:
Undereye circles. Use a concealer (a cream or stick product that is more opaque than foundation) in a shade lighter than your skin (or foundation). Don't cover the whole undereye area—this may only accentuate the problem. Apply only to the dark circle, using a small flat brush, then apply foundation.
Large pores. Less makeup is the key to minimizing large pores. Apply a sheer matte foundation and blend it subtly, using a wedge sponge. Top with loose translucent powder. Be sure to buy a fine-milled powder. A coarse one can exaggerate pore size. Test powder by rubbing it between the thumb and index finger—a finely milled product should feel silky, with no distinct graininess.
Acne. Disguise a blemish by dabbing on a medicated coverup (such as Clearasil Tinted Cream or Stick, Owen Lab's Liquimat Lotion, Clinique Anti Acne Control Formula, or Shiseido Pureness Spot Cream). Be sure to dab the coverup right on the very top of the pimple, not the surrounding tissue. On unblemished skin, these medicated products cause dryness and flakiness—more unsightliness. Then cover with foundation. Don't use a regular concealer—the oils contained in it could make the blemish worse.
To tone down allover rednesss, try a green-toned primer under foundation. Adrien Arpel Porcelain Cover Base, Shiseido Green Moisture Mist Compact Foundation, Countess Isserlyn Tuna Cover Base, and Marcella Borghese Velluto Liquid Toner Verde are all good. Apply sparingly, and blot well with a tissue. These are a bit on the oily side, and overdoing it could raise another bump.
Acne scars. Light casts shadows in the depressions left by acne or other injuries. Use a stick concealer and gently roll the color into the skin depression. Smooth out with foundation. Or mix a bit of loose powder into your usual foundation for a matte, heavier makeup. Spot-apply to scars. Keep makeup finishes matte—luminescent finishes can highlight imperfections.
Broken blood vessels. These little squiggly red lines are actually enlarged, not broken, vessels. Most of the time, an extra dab of foundation is all that's needed to cover them up. For especially large or red vessels, use a green toned primer, as discussed above. Apply it to the area with your fingers, using short strokes. Buff with a cotton ball to blend in the edges. Apply foundation.
Undereye crinkles, lines. Avoid concealers in this area—their heavier formula tends to settle into lines and accentuate them. Instead, mix half moisturizer and half foundation in the palm of one hand. Pat on with a fingertip. Then take a fine makeup sponge and roll it back and forth to blot the excess. Dust with powder to set coverup.
Corner-of-eye crinkles, lines. To soften crow's feet, brush in a bit of pale powder. The pale color lightens the dark of the crease, visually flattening it. Apply eye makeup toward the center of eye to direct attention away from corners and also to lessen any clumping of shadow in creases.
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