Imagine spreading a thick, greasy, gummy substance over your hair to condition it! That's what the ancient Egyptians did when they wanted to I make their hair more manageable.
It was not uncommon to mix local fats and oils to create conditioners for the hair. One Egyptian solution consisted of a "mixture of six kinds of fat - the fat of a hippopotamus, a lion, a cat, a crocodile, a snake and an ibex."
Polynesians concocted a scented oil called "mouoi" and a gummy substance from the coconut tree called "pia" to create conditioners for the hair. The main problem with these early conditioners was they left the hair greasy, sticky and easily soiled.
It wasn't until the early 1950s that chemical suppliers realized the technology used in fabric softeners to soften natural wool fibers could also be used in creating conditioners for the hair. These early conditioners were emulsions that contained oils, such as mineral oils. They looked similar to cream hairdressings, but they could be rinsed out without removing the good properties of the conditioners.
From magical mixtures of wild animal fats, hair conditioners have progressed beyond the greasy concoctions of Cleopatra's day. Today, there are thousands of conditioners on the market, all claiming to solve specific hair problems, if not ALL of them.
The lowdown on Conditioners
Conditioners do a variety of things for your hair. Some work only on the cuticle and are used everyday. Others penetrate the cortex for longer lasting results. These are called deep-penetrating treatments, because they are used occasionally and are almost theraputic.
Deep-penetrating treatments are often packaged as single-application packettes or vials, because a little goes a long way! All open the cuticle to let moisture or protein into the cortex. Some treatments require heat: using a dryer, a heat cap or wrap. These are the most powerful conditioners.
There are two basic types of deep-penetrating treatments: moisturizing and protein. Moisturizing treatments put moisture, softness and "bounce" back into hair that's dried out from over-processing, heat styling or exposure to sun and wind. HOT OIL and CHOLESTEROL products are two types of moisturizing treatments, though there are others. Protein treatments may also be called "protein packs." They rebuild strength in hair that has lost its elasticity by adding protein to the cortex. Often this treatment is given before the perm or color to get hair into the best shape. Protein treatments are excellent when used as needed, but overuse can severely dry out hair.
Moisturizing and protecting are also attainable with daily conditioners, but they are not as strong as the deep-penetrating treatments. They are commonly called rinse out or leave-in conditioners.
We expect a lot from conditioners. They should add moisture, strengthen hair, make it shinier, detangle it, smooth split ends, add fullness and body, and more.
Conditioners work in a variety of ways, some only working on the cuticle and others actually penetrating into the cortex for longer lasting results. These latter conditioners are called deep-penetrating "treatments" because they are used occasionally for therapeutic reasons.
Conditioning and shampooing go together like salt and pepper. However, shampoos don't take the place of conditioning. Shampoos clean. Conditioners NOURISH.
Q. I really like using a cream rinse. Is there a difference between a cream rinse and conditioner?
A. A cream rinse detangles and doesn't penetrate like a conditioner will. They work instantly, but must be rinsed out well or they'll leave a residue, making hair look dull. A conditioner imparts moisture or protein to strengthen hair. Deep-penetrating conditioners actually penetrate the hair's cortex.
Q. Why do so many conditioners and styling aids contain alcohol? Doesn't it dry hair out?
A. The kind of alcohol found in some shampoos and condition ers is cetyl or stearyl alcohol. This type actually helps condition hair to make it softer. Isopropyl alcohol is in hairspray and some other styling aids, and is usually called SD-40 alcohol on the label. It is the ingredient which makes hairspray dry quickly. Generally, there is not enough SD-40 alcohol in any professional beauty product to be harmful. But remember, over time, they can build-up and sap hair's moisture. Shampoo well, and rinse thoroughly.
Q. My hair is really damaged. Will it help to leave in a conditioner longer than the directions indicate?
A. Not necessarily. Conditioners take a certain amount of time to penetrate the hair. After that time, there is no added benefit. Leaving conditioner in longer can actually do more harm than good by drying the hair out even more! Follow directions on the package or your stylist's advice.
Q. I have an oily scalp, but my hair is dry. What conditioner will treat those opposing conditions?
A. Use a gentle cleansing shampoo, then apply a rinse-out conditioner, like Ion Moisturizing Treatment or Professional Prescription Enforce, working the conditioner well into the ends. Rinse thoroughly.
Q. What is a humectant?
A. A humectant is an ingredient in hair products that draws moisture into the hair from the air. For dry hair, you want to be able to hold moisture. For fine, limp hair, you want to repel moisture.
Q. Why do some conditioners make your hair feel greasy?
A. That slick, oily feel can be a result of using too much conditioner, or applying a deep-penetrating treatment all over the hair, rather than just in spots that need it. Deep-penetrating moisturizing treatments should generally be used only on the damaged areas, such as dry or split ends.
Q. Is it important to use the same brand of shampoo and conditioner?
A. Yes, for best results, because as a system they are designed to work in harmony. However, it is not absolutely necessary.
Q. I think I have over-conditioned my hair. Help!
A. Over-moisturizing makes hair very limp. Hair that is over-proteined will be brittle and hard. Clarifying shampoos are the answer.
Q. What is a good everyday conditioner to use with an everyday shampoo?
A. Depending on the amount of conditioner needed, try Ion Finishing Rinse to make hair more manageable. Enforce by Professional Prescription offers more conditioning and can be used everyday. Unicure Hair and Skin Conditioner is a good everyday conditioner for simply detangling. For economy, try Salon Care All-Purpose Remoisturizer in the gallon size. Other great everyday conditioners are Zotos Acclaim Plus Daily Conditioner or Aura Rosemary & Mint Rinse.
Q. Which is best, a leave-in or rinse-out conditioner?
A. Rinse-out conditioners do more permanent conditioning by filling in the hair and making it stronger. Leave-in conditioners are made to maintain the hair on a daily basis. They make combing easier, which reduces friction, prevents breakage and adds sheen to the hair before drying. Leave-in conditioners also protect from additional moisture loss. Another leave-in conditioner, a perm rejuvenator, adds elasticity to the hair to encourage the curl pattern and add bounce. Moisturizers in the formula give the hair a healthy look.
Q. Can leave-in conditioners be used on all textures?
A. Yes. On fine, thin hair, leave-in conditioners condition within out weighing hair down. On coarse, thick hair, the conditioning agents will soften and make the hair easier to manage. Some good products to try are Keragenics Rejuvenating Treatment, Infusium 23, or Fantasia IC Hair and Scalp Treatment.
Q. I have fine hair. Should I avoid conditioners that weigh my hair down?
A. Conditioners of the past often seemed to plaster fine hair down on the head. Today, there are many lighter formulas. It may seem contrary to common sense, but a leave-in daily conditioner may actually work better for you than a rinse-out conditioner because it is formulated to be "lighter" on hair. Avoid conditioners that have waxy ingredients in them. Try using Jheri Redding Biotin, Volumizer Leave In or Zotos Acclaim Plus Leave-In Conditioner.
Q. Why should I use an instant conditioner after I shampoo?
To smooth the cuticle, making hair easy to comb. A smooth cuticle makes hair shine and look vibrant. Salon Care All Purpose Remoisturizer or Unicure Hair and Skin Conditioner both rinse out. Leave in conditioners include Ion Anti Frizz Leave In or Aphogee Pro Vitamin Leave In Treatment.
Q. Can leave-in conditioners be used everyday?
Leave-in conditioners are considered daily conditioners and can be used everyday. Try Jheri Redding Biotin, Biotera Leave In, Aura Elixer and Volumizer Leave In.
Q. I have oily hair. Should I use a conditioner?
A. Yes. It is best, however, to avoid using the rinse-out conditioners. A leave-in conditioner or deep-penetrating treatment may be needed, especially if hair is permed or color treated. Even oily hair can benefit from occasional moisturizing or protein treatments.
Q. If I use a moisturizing shampoo, should I use a conditioner?
A. In general, yes. There is not much benefit to following a moisturizing shampoo with a rinse-out conditioner - that's two doses of the same medicine! A leave-in conditioner, however, can complement a moisturizing shampoo, and there are many products designed to be used together in just this way.
Q. What should I put on my hair before I wet comb it, after shampooing, so I will not break my hair?
A. Use leave-in treatments such as Jheri Redding Volumizer Leave In, Infusium 23, Ion Anti Frizz Leave In, or Biotin Leave In Treatment for hair that needs extra nourishing and that is thin, fine or weak.
Q. I have static in my hair. What can I do?
A. Look for a product that will give a slight coating to the hair. Try a spray-on, leave-in conditioner. Most conditioners will help reduce static. Good products to try include Influx CHP Vitamin Treatment, Keragenics Rejuvenating Treatment, Aura Elixer or Ion Anti Frizz Leave In Conditioner.
Q. My hair tangles easily. What will fake out the tangles, but not weigh down my thin hair?
A. Leave-in conditioners like Jheri Redding Volumizer, Ion Anti Frizz Leave In Conditioner, and Infusium 23 are light formulas that will not weigh hair down. Also consider using Keragenics Revitalizing Hair Treatment because it has pan-thenol and will help to re-moisturize hair.
0 comments:
Post a Comment